The food of Catalonia is divided in The Catalan Country Kitchen into the game-oriented inland fare and the better-known coastal seafood.

Catalan author Torres has lived in California for more than 15 years in presenting Catalan "country" cooking (somewhat ill-famed for its "cabbage-and-cream" heaviness) to Americans, she favors the lighter dishes, lightens up some of the heavier ones and even suggests that a dish traditionally considered a first course may be "substantial enough to serve as a main course for a lunch or light supper.

This approach places front and center the dishes likely to entice most readers: aromatic and savory soups, rabbit and poultry braised or roasted with garlic or fruit dressings, and stews seasoned with the "classic quartet" of rosemary, thyme, oregano and bay.

The more familiar seafood gets full justice, including an outstanding paella method.

Torres presents each recipe concisely and yet completely, and her evocative introductions to every dish are always welcome. Her notes on wines are simple but useful, although the chapter dedicated to them is little more than a charming tour of the region's producers.